Postcard from Ohio- 1

3-5 June 2012

Perrysburg

We had nothing but toll road getting here to Perrysburg, OH. Easy, easy drive. This KOA park has a lot of trees and a small number of sites with water & 50A electric… and no sewer connection. I screwed up the reservation and inadvertently picked this site instead of the usual “full hook-up”. And they managed to place the tank dump somewhere I couldn’t get with all 38′ of our 5th wheel.

The Admiral was not happy. But after I said I’d go use the park’s shower, leaving her to fill the grey water tank all by herself, she git over it. So we made it thru the nite and were off to Grafton, OH the next morning.

One of the things we got in Elkhart at Rise ‘n Roll Bakery was a couple 1 lb. bags of sliced meat. It was time to start eating it or it was going to have an undignified burial in the garbage can.It was a great find and the meat was delicious.

Grafton

I’d made the next reservation at American Wilderness Campground. It turns out to be a huge park (perhaps 250 sites?) with a fishing lake, a swimming lake, lots of trees, lots of grass, lots of rules, and… no sewers. And if you have no sewers (anywhere!) it means you have no flush toilets (can you say outhouse). Nor do you have showers anywhere near where the camp sites are. Essentially we were dry camping for $44/nite.

Mrs. Bowman’s little boy got a lot of abuse from the Admiral since this was a 2-nite stay. I was assured by the receptionist, Ms. Perky, that there was no charge for dumping the tanks. “Mmm… thanks. I guess.” All you have to do is get ready to leave the park in order to use the dump station. If I have to do that much work, I’ll just keep on going down the road.

In all fairness, it was pretty clear I was in the minority as most folks looked pretty happy being here. I believe most are seasonal renters down from Toledo. But I did worry about where all the gray water is going. For those rigs that haven’t been moved since before the start of this century (there were a few!), they have a ‘honey wagon’ that can empty your black tank.

It wasn’t all bad news. We went in search of a WalMart and lunch in either order. We first tried Lu’s Pizza which had a sign that said “OPEN”, but it must have been do-it-yourself pizza as there weren’t any employees there. We went a little further and the Admiral said those magic words “Chili dog!” And that’s how we became acquainted with The Grafton Scoop.

The Admiral had the foot-long dog and I had the chilli-cheese dog. The latter was smaller than I’d like- I could have easily eaten 2. Both these dogs were excellent. But small was OK as I now had plenty of room for a large hot caramel sundae. Which was a happy experience as The Grafton Scoop serves the best soft-serve I’ve ever had. They also have hard pack (Toft’s Ice Cream) but they make their sundaes with soft serve. Double-wow! Very creamy, no graininess at all. And apparently the locals agree as it was voted the best ice cream in Lorrain County, OH. They get my vote too!

We found the WalMart and got some decent drumsticks (packaged ice cream cones) and went home to write this blog and eat our treasures!

Off to Erie, PA tomorrow.

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Postcard from Indiana- 3

1-3 June 2012

Not all bakeries are created equal

On the way to Shipshewanna we spotted a bakery and did a nose-stand to slow enough to make the driveway. The reason for the urgent stop? Fresh strawberry pie! We managed to get there before 3:00 PM closing, but only by 3 minutes. So instead of sandwiches and soup plus dessert, we opted for 2 pieces of pie to-go and sat in the parking lot eating it.

It only took one bite and we knew: this piece of strawberry pie was not up to the standard of the Essenhaus. Too bad. Guess we just have to go back to Essenhaus again before we leave… what a shame! 🙂

Shipshewanna

We made it to the Menno-hof center and took the guided tour. I’d recommend the tour to anyone visiting the area regardless their religious persuasion. The center is housed in an enormous red barn which, we were told, took 6 days to raise plus an additional 1.5 years to finish the interior rooms and displays. Most of the aural information is pre-recorded in a series of audio/visual presentation, but the guide is always nearby to answer questions or to just chat. We enjoyed our time there and felt better able to understand what we’ve seen and heard about these special people.

But after hearing the presentation I was more puzzled than ever to understand the women working in the restaurants and bakeries. With the determination of the Amish to separate themselves from those that don’t believe as they do, the presence of so many working in the food service industry seems contradictory. [Sorry for the crappy image which I’ll replace ASAP. Computers are wonderful but only to the extent the operator knows what he’s doing!]

Back to Middlebury

Yep. Had to have dinner at Essenhaus again. The food is nothing fancy, but it’s excellent and (thankfully!) they had more strawberry pie. OK, we’re almost ready to move on.

RV-MH Hall of Fame

On Saturday before leaving we made it to the museum. At least there’s one place in town you don’t have to worry about taking photos. And that I did! The museum contains many restored RVs from the not-so-recent past. $7 ea for us seniors. The entrance is in the back, next to the Interstate.

So here’s way more images than you’ll want to bother with:

1- RV/MH Hall of Fame (where 5th wheels seem forgotten!)

2- This was from 1916. The restoration is beautiful!

3- This was a prototype for what became the Airstream Bambi.

4- Another Ford-based RV. Seems a misnomer to call it a motor home!

5A- Check the chimney, then look below…

5B- …at the bot belly stove!

6- Saw a video on the Travel Channel about the restoration of this one!

7A- Pretty amazing travel trailer…

7B- …with a very complete interior.

8A- Mae West was into RVs! This is her custom motor home…

8B- …complete with a veranda!

9A- A Ford pulling a Covered Wagon…

9B- …and this is the Covered Wagon itself.

10- A GMC motor home from the late ’60s (I’ve seen this with an FMC logo).

11- Airstream Ranch in FL… passed this on the way to Lazy Days.

Elkhart River Walk

The Admiral had done a little research and learned about Elkhart’s River Walk. We wanted to see the old downtown area and managed to stumble on the walk. It’s a long way from a fully developed area, but there are a couple places to choose from for lunch (and dinner? dunno). We chose b on the River and had great sandwiches. It was a nice choice for lunch but haven’t a clue what you might do here for dinner.

We’re off tomorrow

That’s it for now. On our way to a couple stops in Ohio and then on to Le Roy, NY for a few days. We’ll visit friends there as maybe well as see Niagra Falls.

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Postcard from Indiana- 2

29-31 May 2012

Uh-oh… the vet

We asked a local- Steve is a waiter at Bob Evans- where we might take Annie to have her treated for the hot spots she’s developed. Turns out he’s from Michigan (they call this area “Michiana” for good reason: locals don’t see the state line that divides the area) and directed us to a Dr. Bergman in Cassopolis, MI. He’s the vet his grandfather has been using on the family farm for 50 or 60 years.

The Admiral called Tuesday morning and was able to get an appointment the same day. The 1/2 hour drive was more of the same style farmland splashed with ultra green colors that make me think of the pastoral scenes depicted by the classic English painters. Umm… but without the misty background. And definitely no farm workers in tights! We loved the drive and will probably take another before we’re out of here.

Dr. Bergman is 81 or 82 now and doesn’t see patients any longer though he does still come into the office. But it’s a large practice and we instead saw Dr. Mike Lampen. Mike said he thought Annie was over the worst of it (no more green oozy stuff) thanks to what the Admiral had been doing. But he did suggest she might be helped by 3 days of Prednisone plus 10 days of an antibiotic (Cephalexin). Annie told me she was happy she wasn’t going to look like a shaved patchwork quilt she’d feared. She also said she liked this new vet that didn’t scare her or poke and prod in private places. She even rolled on her back to get a belly rub before dragging me out the office door at a trot before he changed his mind!

I waited for the bill and the meds: everything came to about $85 which is on the order of 1/2 what we’ve had to pay in New Mexico. We were very pleased! And with falling temps and a good prognosis for Annie, we were feeling much better.

An accident

No, I didn’t crunch another Porsche. Nor any other car or truck!

The vet warned us Annie was going to be super thirsty and hungry. Well, she’s always hungry, so that wasn’t new. But I missed the inference that if she’s more thirsty, she’ll drink more and ultimately would have to pee more. And that she did. She barked a couple times in the middle of the night like she sometimes does for strange noises, and for a response she got the usual “Hush!!” Bad move. When I got up at 7 AM it looked like the washing machine had overflowed. Yikes!

So I’ve saved away yet another lesson: Prednisone means more urine. Got that dummy?! “Umm, (gulp), yes ma’am.” Actually urine has never been a problem as we carry an enzyme-based product from PetSmart called Nature’s Miracle that cleans it up, prevents staining, and removes the smell completely.

Middlebury, IN

We wanted to do some looking around, and we were hungry (nothing new there!). We had a brochure for a bakery in Middlebury called Rise ‘n Roll which offers lunch (the site takes awhile to load). So off we went. Once there we learned that lunch was from their deli and that there were several benches and tables where you could sit in air conditioned comfort and pack away a large lunch off a paper plate. I had a ham and cheese that was other-worldly… must have been illegal or bad for me as it tasted way too good! Honey ham slices plus local white cheese on a cinnamon-raisin roll with all the fixings including a little bit of raspberry jam. Made me grin all over!

Interesting place with special parking for locals. Many (most?) use traditional transport: a 1 horse power wagon that leaves a calling card wherever it stops!

I’m not sure what to call these passenger vehicles as many are completely enclosed, looking for all the world like a black Brinks armored car. And they’re too big to be a buggy. Maybe a carriage? I suspected they’re fully enclosed to keep nosy tourists like myself from getting a photo of the occupants (a no-no), but a closer look later showed the covering snaps on/off. So apparently it’s a winter covering for passenger comfort.

And if you happen to be an RVer who owns a Dutchmen trailer, that manufacturing facility is just across the street in this huge building. I was surprised to see that it’s owned by the Thor company which is the parent company of Keystone RV. Keystone RV includes many familiar brands of trailer-RVs like Montana (our maker), Cougar, Alpine, et al and at last reckoning was the largest trailer-RV maker in the world (not surprising since they own most of the brands!).

Hopefully we’ll get to Shipshewanna tomorrow and visit the Menno-hof Mennonite-Amish center and maybe come away with a little better understanding of what the Amish & Mennonites are all about. Plus we want to see the RV/MH Hall of Fame which is just down the road.

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Postcard from Indiana- 1

26-28 May 2012

Pendleton, IN

Yep, Indiana, not Oregon. Yes, I’m sure. And Mr. Google and Ms. Garmin agree.

We left Effingham, IL a day early cuz we had gotten a call there was room for us on Saturday nite in Pendleton. That conveniently broke the 310 mile Effingham-to-Elkhart trip into a 180 mile leg plus a 130 mile leg. Mrs. Bowman’s little boy is much happier with these smaller, bite size pieces.

The shorter legs were definitely the way to go, but these 2 campgrounds are hardly a comparison. GloWood is a little rough around the edges with ruts that have been filled with gravel only slightly smaller than sharp boulders. The rig was rocking from side to side like a round bottom boat lying beam to the waves. With access roads like that you might expect the sites were just as bad but that wasn’t the case. Our camp site was nice and level and we got a good nights sleep. All the camouflaged ruts, however, suggest this may not be a good place if it’s raining or going to rain while you’re there. I could see us plowing furrows with wheels buried axle-deep.

The owners have done a great job with the grounds of the park. There’s a large playground and picnic area under tall shade trees that greets you as you enter. The ‘office’ is built into a side of the picturesque red & white barn that looks strong enough to handle a California earthquake. All very appealing if you were to spend a few days. And Indianapolis isn’t far away if you’re a confirmed Urbanite.

The only thing uncomfortable was the heat and humidity. Yikes! Temps are setting records around here. The average is supposed to be 74 deg F but instead we saw 95 F on Saturday and 97 on Sunday. It was the hottest Indy 500 ever. A camper in the Airstream next to us at GloWood was going to the race and would be in the infield: no shade the whole time there and a mass of people blocking any hope of seeing. Tough people to deal with that!

Fuel prices are up again, now that we’re in Indiana… back over $4/gal.

Elkhart, IN

The drive to Elkhart was one of the nicest we’ve had this year. We were on state or county highways all the way from Pendleton (never did see a town by that name!) due north to Elkhart for about 125 miles. Almost straight as a tight string. Well… excluding the detour to avoid the bridge that was out on IN-15. It’s all farm land- green, no fences except for where they were keeping animals, friendly people. No one seemed too angry about having an RV in front of them.

And stop signs everywhere. With all the stop & go our mileage was down to 9.4 mpg. That’s one of the drawbacks of farm country. As you pass thru all the open land, not all the roads line up because of property lines. So there’s a stop sign where you need to jog 50 yards to the left or right, then accelerate back to 55 mph. 55 mph is our most economical speed, but stop & go throws away that bonus.

And it was hot! That seems to be the signature for this year’s travels. Way above average and apparently a repeat of last year.

Aside from what it does to fuel mileage, there’s a draw back to driving thru farmland: no rest stops and no place to pull over to the side of the road. Especially after we got to Goshen where even the tiny 3′ shoulder disappeared and was replaced by a curb.

Elkhart Campground

I’d heard of this place a few years ago, so I was looking forward to seeing it for myself. About 250 spaces on grass, mostly pull-thrus with 50-Amps & full hook-up. The sites are wide and are level, at least where we are. There are only a few trees, but they’re tall and cast a decent shadow before or after mid-day.

There are folks here from all over the country and they have a single purpose: this is Amish country and they all want to steal an unwelcome photo of an Amish farmer driving his family to the store in their horse drawn wagon. The Admiral knows all about that: she and her brother stopped at an Amish farmer’s field where he was working. The Admiral snap a photo and the next thing she knew a very grumpy farmer came stomping across his field as he rolled up his sleeves. Her bro shoved her in the car and drove off saying “You trying to get us killed?!” So I’ve been warned about taking photos of the Amish. Not really a problem for me as I’m uncomfortable sticking my camera in a stranger’s face anyway.

At any rate, we loaded up on brochures and will make the rounds with the others. We understand the Visitor Center here has free audio CDs available for a self-guided tour of the Amish country here.

Essenhaus

Best way to learn about an area is thru the food, right? Well, it works for us!

Essenhaus had been recommended to us as a place to good German cooling. It turned out not to be German: the correct name is Das Dutchmen Essenhaus. But it’s close enough for us tourists I guess. We had a huge meal of comfort food that had us grinning from ear to ear: Beef or chicken over noodles over a big dollop of mashed potatoes. May not sound great, but it is. Especially when you finish it off with a big piece of fresh strawberry pie with whipped cream!

Essenhaus is a huge complex which contains restaurants (2 in one building: 1 for menu-dining; 1 family style, the latter covers 2 floors), bakery, shops including a very complete quilt shop, performing arts theater, conference center and probably much more. There were literally hundreds of people in the dining rooms when we were there for lunch, and hundreds more outside looking around. It’s so big in terms of area I didn’t even feel the press of people (I hate crowds!)

We tried to walk off the huge load of carbs after we ate and roamed around thru the shops and the grounds. Not many takers for the buggy ride, but in hind sight it would have been a good way to see what was there and to have some info from an employee.

Traveling with dogs

Our dogs are Bernese Mountain Dogs. In Switzerland where the breed originated they’re called berner sennenhunds. As I understand it, that translates roughly to ‘farm dog from the Bern area‘. They’re great big happy campers – one RVer aptly called them mush balls – and they want to be where we are (sadly, that’s not always possible). The breed does well in a cold climate, so all the heat we’re having can be a problem. Since we’re pretty wimpy about the heat too, we have the AC on nearly all the time both in the truck and in the coach. Kelly has been OK with the chilled bandana the Admiral bought each of them, but Annie struggles sometimes. Right now Annie has several hot spots, perhaps the result of not getting enough rinsing after a bath, and we will have to find a vet tomorrow (Tuesday). We’ve been treating the spots ourselves, cutting away the hair then washing and applying an ointment. But it’s become clear our efforts are inadequate (sorry Dr. Breer, we tried!).

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Postcard from Illinois- 1

23-25 May 2012

Stanton, Mo

Tombstone bills itself as the “town too tough to die”. Even more impressive is Stanton, MO- the town that doesn’t exist! At least that’s what Ms. Garmin would have you believe. They have a postal zip code, but apparently that’s not good enough.

Anyway, the KOA campground in Stanton was just what we needed for our overnite stop. Dan & Barb are the owners and they keep the place neat and clean. And, since there’s no restaurant in town, they offer on-site BBQ meals at the small cafe. I had a half-rack of spare ribs and the Admiral had the pulled pork. When we compared notes later we decided I had the better choice.

Our neighbor for the night was a friendly guy named Les Josephson who turned out to be a former NFL player. Les spent 11 years playing for the LA Rams (1964-1974) as a running back and even made it to the Pro Bowl one time. He accumulated enough injuries that he has needed 11 surgeries, plus he’s looking forward to having both shoulders replaced as well as one knee.What a way to earn a living. Yikes!!

OK… time to talk (whine?) about navigation a little. We do our navigation first with planning using a combination of  either Google or Yahoo! Maps. Then we add in Woodall’s (either on-line or the paper directories we buy each year) or, if we need to, the KOA site or directory. After I work out all these details I save the map which now has the directions embedded. Then I make sure each location can be found on the Garmin where I save the destinations to Favorites so I can recall each one when needed.

Generally that’s gotten me pretty much everywhere so far… until I looked for KOA Stanton. Which lives in Google maps but doesn’t exist in Garmin. No problem: Woodall’s has latitude/longitude, right? Close, but no cigar! Apparently Woodall’s only has complete info for those campgrounds that pay for a listing. Since the KOA in Stanton doesn’t pay for a listing, there’s no lat/lon data. Woodall’s apparently is not as complete a guide as they would have you believe.

So, what to do. Well, there’s a site called GetLatLon.com which gives you a Google map which you can slide around under the cross-hairs and simultaneously display latitude & longitude. Cool. Armed with lat/lon you can go into the Garmin and choose Coordinates and plug in the info; Save the location; and Edit the listing to add a Name, Phone # etc. I found the GetLatLon.com site from hams who use it for computing great circle paths to another station when they use a directional antenna.

Effingham, IL

So… where the hell is Effingham?! It’s actually a fair sized town with a high school, a Cracker Barrel (yes!), a WalMart (double-yes!), it is probably the seat of Effingham County, and it has an RV park called Camp Lakewood. The campground is a rustic park which is located in a grove of mature trees (ash?) adjacent to a small fishing-only lake (no swimming). A really nice place run by owners Brian & Vanessa Caton. The access is via a narrow county road that was built for automobiles and not the likes of big Class motorhomes or heavy 5th wheels. I was a little unnerved but the Admiral kept urging me on and sure enough, completely hidden from view and free of all Interstate noise, now found this little bit of Illinois heaven. Well, OK… a little over the top. But when I arrived I was whipped and it seemed like heaven to be off the road!

I had asked for a pull-thru site, but by the time we arrived I decided I wanted to stay 2 nites which wasn’t possible. They were, however, able to fit us into a back-in site. I thought “oh crap!” Brian said he’d guide me in and I’m happy say he knows what he’s doing. Got us parked in short order in a site that has good shade. The only odd thing is that the water hose is led under the RV from the curb-side, but that’s no big deal.

I had tried a couple times to get our next stop reserved but struck out at the first one (3-day minimum) and the 2nd park (GloWood Campground north of Indianapolis) never called back. So I asked for a 3rd nite which unfortunately meant an over-300 mile day on Sunday to get to Elkhart Campground in Elkhart, IN. This morning I found a missed call from the GloWood park saying they had space and had my name on one of the pull-thru sites. Happy day! That will break the trip to Elkhart into two 160 mile days and maybe the Captain won’t be such a grump when we finally get there.

Dinner out

If there’s a Cracker Barrel anywhere close, we usually opt to eat out. We’ve always had good meals and look forward to wherever we next find one. Last nite, however, was not much to write home about. Maybe it was an off night, or maybe it was us… we’ll see what the next CB brings.

Getting the mail

We use Alternative Resources in Sioux Falls for our mail forwarding. We had them send mail to Branson, MO and now we’ll get the next batch sent to Elkhart, IN. In 2-1/2 years they’ve done fine in getting mail to where we are. While it’s FedEx that does the transport and delivery, Alternative Resources has always done a good job collecting the mail, dumping the advertising, repackaging large orders (to minimize the number of boxes) and generally keeping order. Plus they have a dedicated person that does nothing but vehicle registration. Karen was a big help to us when establishing residency in South Dakota.

Hey Becky…

Tony & Peggy are indeed work-kamping here at the Camp Lakewood RV park. We said Hi! for y’all.

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